My “Build of the Month” (BOTM) Series was created to help those who are trying to get started in scratch building their own Radio Controlled (RC) Model Aircraft from plans.

  "Aerofred.com" and "Outerzone.co.uk" are two of my favorite web sites to obtain free RC model airplane plans for my new builds. Additionally, they like to post images of Builder's models, and both sites have posted my RC model images and build descriptions under the heading of the associated aircraft model. Other good sources for free plans are: "Hip Pocket Aeronautics Builders' Plan Gallery", "Vintage & Old-Timer RCM Free Plans", "James Hatton Blog Free Plans and Articles", "Hlsat Blog RCModeler Free Plans and Articles", and "Don Dewey Memorial RCM Plans Collection."

  If you are currently not an active builder, and you would like to be, my BOTM Series is a great place to start. If you have an RC model aircraft that you would like to see featured in this section or feel others may find interesting, please let me know and I will make every attempt to find scratch build plans, photos, and maybe even a published build article, which I will then post in one of my future BOTM editions. Just send me an email @: Build of the Month.

Build of the Month Series - November 2026 Edition

  I hope you enjoyed last months BOTM Edition on the 1909 Blériot XI. If you have an RC model that you would like to see featured in this section or feel others may find interesting, please let me know and I will make every attempt to find scratch build plans, images, and maybe even a published build article, which I will then post in a future edition. Just send me an email @: Build of the Month.

  Ok, now lets see what I have for the month of November 2026. For the 4th Edition of my “Early Pioneers” Mini-Series, how about another French designed aircraft. Given this requirement, this month features an RC model of the 1910 Deperdussin, a tractor configuration mid-wing monoplane.

Images Source: Shuttleworth.com.

  The 1910 Deperdussin monoplane was a tractor configuration mid-wing monoplane, with a very slender fuselage formed by a shallow fabric-covered wire-braced wooden box-girder, the longerons curving into a vertical knife-edge at the back. The depth of the front section of the fuselage was increased by a shallow shell of wood veneer built over curved formers. Due to the extremely shallow fuselage, the pilot was almost completely exposed, sitting on rather than in the fuselage.

  The wings were mounted below the upper longerons and were slightly tapered. Lateral control was by wing warping. In earlier aircraft the warping and bracing wires were attached to a pair of vertical kingposts just aft of the leading edge of the wing: in later aircraft these were braced by diagonal struts leading back to the fuselage longerons. The empennage of early examples consisted of an elongated triangular vertical fin with a cutout to allow elevator travel with a rectangular rudder hinged to the trailing edge, and a similarly elongated triangular tailplane with an elevator.

  In later examples, such as that in the Shuttleworth Collection, the horizontal tail surface was shorter, the leading edges being swept at about 45°. A distinctive feature of the type was that the trailing edge of the rudder and elevator were braced by wires leading to the control horns. The controls consisted of a wheel mounted on an inverted U-shaped yoke, the uprights of which were outside the fuselage structure. Fore and aft movement of the entire yoke operated the elevator, and the wheel operated the wing warping. The rudder was controlled by pedals. The undercarriage consisted of a pair of trapezoidal frames, each braced by a diagonal member extended forwards to form a short upcurved skid to protect the propeller in the case of nose-overs, with a pair of wheels carried on a sprung cross axle between the two frames.

• Full Scale 1910 Deperdussin General Characteristics:
• Crew: One
• Wingspan: 8.76 m (28 ft 9 in)
• Wing Area: 14 m2 (150 sq ft)
• Length: 7.24 m (23 ft 9 in)
• Power Plant: 1 × Anzani 3-cyl. Fan 40-45 hp 3 cylinder air-cooled semi-radial, 37 kW (50 hp)
• Propellers: 2-bladed, 2.44 m (8 ft 0 in) diameter
• Empty weight: 280 kg (617 lb)
• Maximum speed: 90 km/h (56 mph, 49 kn)

Images Source: Outerzone.

  The 1911 Deperdussin B RC model in this months BOTM Edition can be built from a set of free full size plans, and the Vern Zundel article from the October 1970 edition of Flying Models, which are available @: Outerzone.

• 1911 Deperdussin B RC Model Specifications:
• Aircraft Type: Semi-Scale Pioneer Aviation
• Flight Performance Category: General Sport
• Wing Span: 56″
• Wing Chord: 15.5 - 12″
• Wing Area: 630 sq.in.
• Horizontal Stab/Elevator Span: 18″
• Horizontal Stab/Elevator Chord: 14 - 5.6″
• Total Length: 48″
• Center of Gravity Location: approx. 2.5″ aft of wing LE
• Required No. of Channels: 4 - Throttle, Ailerons, Rudder, and Elevator
• Landing Gear: Tail Dragger
• Glow Fuel Engines: .35 - .45 2-stroke
• Electric Powered: Output of 700 - 900 Watts, 60 - 80 amp ESC, 4-Cell 45C LiPo pack of around 4,000 - 5,000mah.

  Much of the following descriptions are summations/extracts from the October 1970 edition of Flying Models, written by Vern Zundel. As noted, this is a 1/6th “Semi-Scale” RC model of the 1911 Deperdussin “B”, which identifies the military version. Some variations from the full scale aircraft are incorporation of strip type full length ailerons, which aid in making the model a stable, flyable scale replica, and the landing gear was moved forward 1.5″ to acquire good ground tracking and takeoff. Additionally, the wing ribs are a simple flat bottom airfoil, versus the under-camber rib profile found on the real aircraft of the early 1900's era.

  Keep in mind that there is no forward moment (no nose) in this model, and that equipment placement is most important. During building, you can cheat wherever you think it may be to your advantage. While constructing the fuselage (from cockpit to tail), for example, you may want to use 1/8″ x 1/4″ upright braces instead of 1/4″ x 1/4″. The prime object is to eliminate an ounce here and an ounce there in the aft fuselage/tail structures. This will prevent using a massive amount of ballast in the engine/motor area later. I would place the two aileron servos (using a servo in each wing half versus the single center wing servo shown in the plans) as far forward in the wing as possible. In addition to this, you may want to super-scale the front with Williams Brother's Cylinder Heads, as the original had a Rotary Engine. The hollow heads can become the ballast areas (fill with lead and epoxy).

  Flying wires should be used as shown in the fuselage construction for torsional rigidity. The wing rigging wires are for appearance only, as the wing is built strong enough to fly this model without the rigging. Since you need weight up front anyway, I recommend you sheet the top and bottom of the forward two inches of the wing with 1/16″ balsa sheet to form a boxed-D wing structure. Also, a hardwood wing leading edge would help. When installing the horizontal stabilizer it will be necessary to cut a diagonal on the section that is in the interior of the fuselage as there is no means of installing this in one piece and the diagonal cut will form a basis of a perfect fit in this area. The rudder/elevator build is straight forward and needs no precise explanation (except to keep them light). The elevator coupling is made from a short piece of 1/8″ dia. music wire, bent into a “U” shape.

  Before first flight do a receiver range check, check all the control throws/directions, and the C.G. to make certain your model is not tail heavy. If you need ballast in the nose, sling it under the engine/motor. Putting it in the forward fuselage won't help much because of the lack of a nose moment. Install a good .40 or .45 to begin with and you won't have any problems getting airborne. Flight characteristics are no different than other conventional general sport models. It's a very low-cost model RC aircraft to build and I think there is nothing more moving than to see an Old Timer banging away overhead. It brings a thought to mind of what it must have been like in the early days of aviation when a man would fly anything that was not tied down. Discover the nostalgic feeling of flying something really different. Get a little hot castor oil in your eye. Download a set of drawings and build yourself a Deperdussin. Then put on your black knee boots, goggles, silk scarf, helmet and don't forget your aviator gloves. Go out to your local field and drive the rest of the club members nuts with envy.

  I hope you have enjoyed this months selection, and just maybe, I have spurred some interest in trying your hand at building an RC model airplane.

Until next month - Keep the Balsa Dust Flying!!

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